Fabric dyeing processes and their impact on the environment

One of the most important environmental problems of the textile industry is linked to the garment dyeing process, during which synthetic dyes are used which, if on the one hand give the garment vivid and long-lasting colours, on the other they pollute and risk being harmful to the consumer.

The dyeing process also has a strong environmental impact because it is water-intensive: large quantities of water are used which can become dangerous, especially when disposed of, as they come into contact with a series of chemical substances (including various types of dyes, microfibres, mordants, etc...).

A solution to this problem has been sought for many years by rediscovering natural dyes, recycling certain substances or investing in new technologies; however, innovation is expensive and complex and, for this reason, not everyone finds the right means to make changes in their production plants.

In 2011, the pioneering organization GreenPeace launched a process of accountability through GreenPeace's Detox Campaign, a campaign designed to raise awareness of brands on their environmental impact, ask them for transparency along the supply chain and make consumers aware of the dangers of fast fashion.

Brands have responded by introducing new innovations and establishing programs such as ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals), in order to promote a more sustainable use of the chemical.

The problem of water consumption

As already mentioned, one of the main problems caused by dyeing processes is the waste of water: dyeing and finishing can use up to 125 liters of water per kilogram of cotton fibre.

This puts great pressure on the world's aquatic resources and mainly on those of developing countries, considering that many Western brands outsource their workforce and have little control over the management of the supply chain.

The problem of the release of harmful substances

Unfortunately, the disposal of waste water is not always adequately regulated.

Waste water can be toxic due to the substances used during dyeing, which do not dissolve in contact with it.

Azo dyes can be used at lower temperatures, making the colors more vivid, but in certain situations they can break down and produce carcinogens: aromatic amines, which can also cause environmental damage.

In several countries, the sale of garments containing materials that could potentially produce aromatic amines is prohibited, even if, in any case, small percentages of them can be found in fabrics.

Another type of harmful substance found in waste water is mordant: a substance that fixes the color to the fibres, extremely polluting.

Disposal of water is expensive and complicated, which is why companies often have difficulty managing it. Underestimating this aspect, however, risks putting the environment and man in serious danger.

Ideas to limit the impact of fabric dyeing processes

Thanks to the GreenPeace Detox campaign, the fashion world has begun to understand the problems caused to the environment by the textile industry and has therefore begun to look for solutions that could limit the impact.

In 2011, for example, six brands planned a campaign response through the ZDHC program.

ZDHC responds to the need to create a recognized standard, so that all companies can comply with one goal: to integrate sustainability into the management of chemicals. We have already talked about the ZDHC program here.

The ZDHC differs from REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals), a regulation drawn up by the European Union in 2007, which serves to protect human health and the environment from risks and chemicals.

While the ZDHC is a protocol that companies can adhere to on a voluntary basis and, therefore, has much more restrictive criteria, being compliant with REACH is mandatory by law.

ZDHC, in particular, is based on a MRSL (Manufacturers Restricted Substances List), i.e. a list of substances prohibited during production processes.

Although ZDHC is a very useful tool for the textile industry, it is criticized for being "slow in its evolution", since the chemical guidelines for manufacturing have only been updated once in ten years and until 2021 companies could declare themselves compliant with the protocol.

In addition to the commitment that a company can demonstrate by adhering to a recognized program such as that of ZDHC, there are many other solutions that demonstrate an effective reduction in the impact of dyeing processes such as, for example, the use of bio materials - get inspired.

In 2011 the creative biodesign agency Faber Futures discovered a microbe that produces pigments that can be used to color fabrics, which are not dangerous for humans or the environment. The dyeing process in this case would require an amount of water which is 500 times less than that used in a conventional dyeing process.

Because vegetable dyes are not always the best solution

It is a common belief that the best solution to solve the environmental problem caused by synthetic dyes is to use natural dyes, but this is not always the case.

In fact, if the use of natural dyes can be a very effective strategy for some companies, for others it can be complex and underperforming.

For example, considering that natural dyes are obtained from plants, roots, fruits, insects and algae, it takes finances, space and manpower to be able to cultivate a necessary and sufficient quantity to be used on an industrial scale.

Natural dyes are also very delicate: they risk fading more quickly with frequent washing and exposure to the sun.

The fact that this type of process has limitations does not necessarily mean that it is disadvantageous: it can be effective, for example, for a small company that bases its values ​​on craftsmanship and uniqueness.

Technology as an ally in reducing the environmental impact of dyeing processes

Technology can be an indispensable ally in reducing the environmental impact of dyeing processes in the textile industry.

For example, the Biella-based company Officina+39 has launched the Recycrom project: it transforms textile production waste into pigmented powders that can be used in dyeing processes.

To learn more about the project, listen to the interview with Officina+39 here.

The EU is also funding projects for eco-friendly dyeing, such as H2COLOR-Aux, a project that prevents hydrolysis (compound cleavage reaction) during dyeing, reducing energy, time, required substances and increasing the production of 50% at reduced costs. It also reduces water usage by 70%.

Case study: WUULS, Officina +39 and Tintex Textiles

Many of the companies we interviewed in our podcast "Fashion & Sustainability Business Stories" are already very committed to reducing the impact of the dyeing process.

Some treasure the teachings of the textile tradition, others exploit technology:

• WUULS is a km0 knitwear brand in the Gran Sasso National Park. It produces sweaters using the wool of the National Park sheep and natural dyes in collaboration with Tintoria Ferrini.

Listen to the interview here.

• Officina+39 has thirty years of experience in research and chemical application in the textile sector. He introduced the concept of recycling and, therefore, of circularity in the dyeing process through the Recycrom project.

Listen to the interview here.

• Tintex Textiles has an approach based on technology and innovation: through the aWaRe project, water is recycled and reintegrated into wet processes. It develops fabrics based on the reuse and recycling of production and warehouse waste.

Listen to the interview here.

Conclusions

The environmental problem caused by the dyeing processes of textile companies is very serious, but not unsolvable.

For each company there is an ad hoc solution that allows you to reduce the environmental impact and at the same time obtain various benefits.

This is why we at Cikis Studio analyze the resources, values ​​and needs of each specific reality, in order to build a tailor-made and effective strategic plan for each individual company.